EVENING DRESS, 1810s late

Very pretty dress, high waisted with a slight train. It is dark brown gauze embroidered in satin stitch with bright yellow leaves in a dense pattern over the fabric. The dress is entirely hand sewn. It would probably have been worn over a satin slip. At the hem are two rows of bright yellow trimming, horizontal at the bottom and in a vandyke or wave pattern at the top. The top edge has two rows of piping. It is made of silk, backed with a stiff cotton gauze. The neckline is round and decollete. It is trimmed with three rows of the same yellow satin as at the hem. The first and third rows are about one cm wide and double piped. The middle row is about the width of the piping. The bodice is in the "a l'enfant" style, with a drawstring which pulls the neckline into position. The drawstring is white cotton tape, possibly not original. There are two bust darts, from underneath. The waistline is high but not extremely so. It is strengthened by a piece of white tape about 1cm wide which is sewn behind the bodice just above the attachment to the skirt. There is a vertical seam underneath each sleeve at the front of the bodice, a short horizontal seam between the neck and the back of each sleeve, and diagonal seams which run from the back of the sleeve down to the waistband just each side of the fastening. The sleeves are short and puffed. The sleeve band and four dagger shaped trimmings which run from the sleeve-band to the join with the shoulder are the same yellow silk as the trimmings on the remainder of the dress. Both the sleeve-band and the dagger trimmings have two rows of piping, and the daggers also have seven rows of piping sewn diagonally across about half-way down the length. The sleeves are lined with beige coloured silk. The gauze of the sleeves is very puffed and is sewn down underneath the dagger trimmings to give a high and low effect. The skirt of the dress is gathered at the back near the centre but virtually not elsewhere. It is not very wide. The skirt is made in four pieces or gores, although the front gore is made of a short piece at the top and a larger piece underneath. To date the dress the following information was taken from the reference given in the bibliography. 1810s : Evening dresses often had a demi-train. p. 371 Gores introduced for bodice in 1813, skirt in 1815. p.371 After 1812 evening dresses often had broad trimmings around the hem as well as artificial leaves. p.371 Colours for evening dresses were often striking, with a liking for yellow. p.373 Materials for evening dresses included crape and net over satin slips. p.373 1820s : By 1824 the waist had descended to the natural level. p.383 Expansion of the shoulder line and a wider skirt. p.383 Bodice could be "a l'enfant" style. p.383 Sleeves on evening dresses were short and puffed, expanding towards 1829. p.389

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