Lay UpArticle | Updated 7 years ago We lived by the seasons, the spring tide, the neap tide, the full moon, luggers coming in, the luggers going out. That was when Chinatown came alive. Pearl Hamaguchi, wife of a pearl diver and pearl farmer, 2000 Aboriginal men loading provisions onto the lugger Tanami. Bourne Collection, courtesy WA Maritime Museum MHL 760 A typical pearling shed with the necessary equipment for hard hat diving — in view are suits, helmets, boots, hoses, compressor and lifelines. Axel Poignant Collection, courtesy National Library of Australia 440 Lay Up As night fell hurricane lamps on decks and cabin tops lit up the scene against the outline of low sand hills and darkness or mangroves. The burning scent of joss sticks, cypress shavings, and coir rope drifted to keep off sandflies. There was music from gramophones and concertinas and singing, tuneful or otherwise – according to alcoholic content. Jack Cryer, fleet manager for AC Gregory & Co, 1920s The small wooden luggers of the early days could not carry all the supplies needed for extended periods at sea. Nor could the crews work in the murky waters stirred up by the strong currents accompanying the high spring tides. So they went ashore to look for water and wood, careen their boats, and barter with Aboriginal groups in the sheltered coastal creeks and bays. The sight of luggers coming into harbour, and lining the shore at low tide, defined the northern pearling ports. The bustle, sounds and cooking smells of the multicultural foreshore camps made them look more like Asian shanties than ports of the British Empire. The dangerous cyclone season, between December and March, was known as ‘lay up’. With the boats safe in port, crews and master pearlers could socialise, spend time with their families, or engage in cultural activities while preparing for next season. The foreshore camps rang with the sounds of hammers and saws as boat-builders, sail-makers and riggers rebuilt the fleet. The master pearlers were required to provide accommodation for their indentured workers. So boarding houses and makeshift camps sprang up along the foreshores and in the ‘Chinatowns’ where Asians and Aboriginal people mixed. Luggers and pearling camps, Broome 1917. William Jackson, courtesy WA Museum DA9312-038 Foreshore pearling camps below Kennedy Hill, with upturned clinker dinghies. Hundreds of luggers sit off in the distance. Courtesy Department of Fisheries and WA Maritime Museum MHP 0026/07 In the Creeks Luggers used to come into the creeks once a month for wood and water. All the grandpas used to cut the wood. Have ’im ready. And the women ready … My grannies used to go for that Malays, because the grandfathers used to let them. That was for tucker…. so they could stay out in those places … Wasn’t wrong. Edna Hopiga, Karajarri elder (dec) 1999 In return for tobacco, food, alcohol and gifts, coastal Aboriginal groups supplied wood, water and women to the crews who came to the creeks on the spring tides. These semi-permanent camps were meeting places and an alternative source of rations for the local people. To avoid the long trek back to port, many pearlers set up permanent lay up camps in coastal bays, such as ‘Chinatown’ at Cape Bossut, Robinson and Norman’s camp in Beagle Bay, and Harry Hunter’s camp at Boolgin Creek. These became permanent settlements for Aboriginal families. Many of these camps, such as Cygnet Bay, have become sites for pearl culture farms. Occasionally, the creek-side bartering ended in conflict. Sexual diseases were also easily spread in the wake of these contacts. The authorities became increasingly concerned about the mistreatment of natives by pearlers, pastoralists and police. An enquiry, headed by Dr Walter E Roth, led to passage of the Aborigines Act 1905, which sought to control the interactions of Asians with Aboriginal people, especially women. ‘Natives’ were banned from entering creeks between sunset and sunrise or the towns, unless they had gainful employment. Unauthorised cohabitation became a criminal offence, and remained so until the 1970s. At watering points such as this soak at Beadon Creek, near Onslow, luggers would pull in for water and wood. The crew ‘traded’ with local Aboriginal people, including women, commonly referred to as ‘Gins’. Arthur Collett, courtesy WA Maritime Museum MHD 313/33 Captain Francis’ pearling schooner Nellie at Barred Creek, 1909. Wilkinson Collection, courtesy WA Maritime Museum MA 1731/06 Robison and Norman lay up camp in Bulla Bullaman creek at Beagle Bay. Between 1890 and 1912, the fleet was built up to 28 boats here. Courtesy Norman Archive Lugger fleet sailing into Willie Creek for the lay up. Bourne Collection, courtesy National Library of Australia 3417765 In Town Put the jib up… We going to Broome. That was the favourite part. Go pub, beer cheap, plenty girl around, plenty party. So hot, everybody love it. All the boys, they act like Valentino. ‘Smiley’ Ismail bin Ibrahim, pearling crew, 2006 In the evening we usually go down to Chinatown for a meal or to the pictures, but what I really liked right opposite Tang Wei’s, was a boarding house for Asian men. They had a balcony overlooking Chinatown, and there was gentleman by the name of Sarrip, who used to play the banjo or the ukelele. It was really beautiful. Philip Dolby, Yawuru elder, 2006 We weren’t allowed to associate with the pearling masters. You’re coloured people; you’re not allowed to talk to white people, to mix with them, unless you were working for them … you would get in trouble. Lexie Tang Wei, wife of Broome pearl diver, 2006 ‘Chinatowns’ and ‘Japtowns’ developed in the northern towns where thousands of indentured labourers lived during lay up. Here flourished boarding houses, gambling dens, noodle cafés, laundries, emporiums, general stores and photographic studios. During the tropical wet season, the heat and humidity exacerbated tensions among cultural groups living, gambling and drinking in crowded conditions. Sometimes, as in the race riots of 1907, 1914 and 1920, crews retaliated against perceived or real injustices. In Broome, authorities strove to maintain racial boundaries. Local families were classified by colour and kept under surveillance. Most institutions were segregated, including hospitals, schools and the Sun Pictures outdoor cinema. State laws prevented Asians and Aboriginal people from mixing. Men were fined – and deported – for cohabiting with their Aboriginal wives. The Commonwealth Immigration Restriction Act 1901 prevented Asians from marrying or owning businesses. But Aboriginal people and Asians socialised under cover of darkness, and a vibrant community, with its own music, language and cuisine emerged in Broome. Lay up was also the social season for the town’s white elite, who conducted a gracious, leisurely way of life: they entertained in spacious houses well-suited to the climate, and held amateur concerts, cricket matches, regattas, race-meetings balls and church bazaars. Yasukichi Murakami standing in front of Dampier Hotel, Broome which he purchased with Captain Ancel Gregory so they could attract the best Japanese divers to their fleet. Courtesy Murakami Family Archives T.B. Ellies was one of the world’s finest ‘pearl doctors’ of the late 19th century. Practitioners of this lost art enhanced the appearance of a pearl by carefully peeling off the outer layers, like the skin of an onion, to remove visible blemishes. Courtesy Aji Ellies, The Pearls of Broome (2010) Sam Sue, one of Broome’s Chinese pearl dealers, in his store. Axel Poignant Collection, Courtesy National Library of Australia 1587442 Moss and Richardson diversified their business by becoming the Siebe and Gorman agents, supplying the fleets with diving gear. Courtesy State Library of Western Australia 4323B/69 Segregated seating did not dampen the enjoyment for Broome residents at the only picture theatre in town, Sun Pictures, c. 1950s. Courtesy State Library of Western Australia 010835d The interior of the Ellies’ squash shop. Most of the Chinatown small businesses were diverse and stayed open late for the local population. Courtesy Aji Ellies, The Pearls of Broome (2010) Sheba lane, Broome, famous for its nightlife. Courtesy National Library of Australia 758186 An Aboriginal elder in front of the Roebuck Hotel, where, under the provisions of the 1905 Aborigines Act, Aboriginal people were barred from entering, and could only stay in town if they had work. Bourne Collection, courtesy WA Maritime Museum MHL 102 Dignitaries including Lord and Lady Gowrie (front row: right and centre) and Captain Goldie (back row,second from right) visiting T.B. Ellies, the pearl dealer store. Courtesy Aji Ellies, The Pearls of Broome (2010) Games and events were held during lay up festivities where, on the field, cultural differences were less apparent. Courtesy State Library of Western Australia 4323B/30 The Aborigines Act 1905 dictated the terms of engagement for Aboriginal workers. Image copyright WA Museum Pearl dealers had to be licensed, though many pearls were sold as snide pearls. Courtesy Doug Fong On rare occasions, tensions between the cultural groups flared. In the 1920s these escalated into riots and police required reinforcements to manage the situation. Courtesy Broome Historical Society and Museum 2009-1008 Streets and laneways of ‘Japtown’ crowded with boarding houses, gambling dens, noodle houses, cafés and hotels. Courtesy Department of Fisheries and WA Maritime Museum MHP 0026/10 Dep’s gambling house with wind vents to capture the breezes, Broome c. 1950s. Inside, banned to Europeans and Aborigines, were wooden benches and tables covered with blankets. Local children would sneak underneath in search of coins. Courtesy Nyamba Buru Yawuru Papers of indenture, 1928. Courtesy Doug Fong L.L. Tack’s former store. Courtesy Doug Fong Carnarvon Street, the main street of Broome. Courtesy Doug Fong After World War Two, Chinese divers were in high demand, as the Japanese were banned from working in pearling until the 1950’s. Courtesy Doug Fong On the king tides the Fong family had to wade through the water to get to their toilet. Courtesy Doug Fong Arthur Tack’s General Store. After siesta, people would gather on the verandahs of the Chinatown stores. Courtesy Doug Fong Amy Tang Wei with her grandfather in front of their family’s Long Soup café. Courtesy Tang Wei Family There were many wooden fish traps set up in the intertidal flats of Roebuck Bay, mostly owned by ‘Manila-men’ (Filipinos) who would supply the town with fresh fish. Courtesy Nyamba Buru Yawuru On the spring tides Chinatown would be flooded, hence all the buildings were on stumps. Courtesy Doug Fong Lugger Picnic It was so exciting ... the lugger picnics ... the whole town went on it, blacks, whites, the whole lot. Food, everything was supplied. We’d go out for a sail and then afterwards we’d have a party at the camp. Bev Kinney, pearler Lugger race, c. 1970s. These festivities were a way to bless the boats and bring good luck for the season. Beilby Collection, courtesy WA Maritime Museum MHS 0059/17 Chino and Jumahat, Streeter and Male crew, getting ready for the picnic c. 1966. Ahmat Bin Fadal, courtesy Broome Historical Society and Museum 2009-252 Lugger picnics were hosted by the pearling companies for their crews and families. Malay and Japanese crew cooked and, on return, festivities continued at the divers’ quarters. Terence Chenoweth, courtesy WA Maritime Museum MHD 319/024 Muriel in Streeter & Male colours for a lugger race, 1927. Bourne Collection, courtesy WA Maritime Museum MHL 229 ‹ Farewell Master Pearlers ›